Villa Romana del Casale and the Island of Ortygia

On Friday, we were on our way to the island of Ortygia which is the historical center of Siracusa, Sicily.  We also decided to make a side-trip to Piazza Armerina.  The world’s most comprehensive set of Roman mosaics is found in the outskirts of this town.  The archaeological site is known as Villa Romana del Casale which is somewhat difficult to find due to lack of signage and a confused GPS.   Apparently, the specifics of the villa’s history are largely lost to history, but experts have dated its origin to around the 4th century AD.  It’s believed to have been either the hunting lodge for the Roman aristocracy or the home of a single politician.   Apparently, there aren’t enough clues to indicate the real owner(s).

The villa features more than 40 absolutely stunning mosaic floors that left us speechless.  The mosaics were so amazing with exacting detail of daily life with dress, hairstyle and footwear.  (This detail helped archeologists date the villa’s construction.)  The mosaics were so bright, colorful and largely complete compared to the faded mosaics we saw in a mosaic museum we visited in Istanbul.  They looked like they were laid down only a century ago!  A true miracle for which we have mother nature to thank.  The villa was buried under a mudslide sometime in the 12th century; and, the site was forgotten under the earth until it was excavated in 1929.

We walked along on high platforms above the rooms and were able to see a number of rooms laid out with these incredible mosaic floors.  We thought that the “Corridor of the Hunt” was the most impressive floor.  As you can see in the picture below, soldiers battle with tigers, then lead them onto ships bound for Rome where they fight against gladiators in Roman colosseums.  Other parts of the “Hunt” depict a group of soldiers trying to pull a hippopotamus out of the water, and a wounded lion jumping onto a soldier.  It is difficult to gain an appreciation of these fabulous mosaics unless one actually sees them in person.  No doubt, it took many years to create all these incredible masterpieces.

Our favorite and probably the most popular mosaic was the so-called “Bikini Girls”.  In a fairly small, square room, ten wonderfully preserved and scantily clad Roman beauties are engaging in various athletics such as discus-throwing, running and playing with a ball.  The girl in the center, apparently the winner, is presented with a golden crown.  We were shocked to see women in bikinis depicted in a mosaic back “in the day”.

The Villa Romana (a UNESCO site) was recently renovated and is one of the most popular sites in Italy.   In order to view each mosaic floor, one has to almost stand in a slow line.  Luckily, the crowds today were manageable.  The place must be unbearable during the summer with undoubtedly lengthy lines with many hours standing in a line to view these beautiful mosaic floors.

The tiny “magical” island of Ortygia, lingers on the edge of Siracusa and is connected to the mainland by three small bridges.  Locals refer to Ortygia as the “White Pearl” of Siracusa.  .  .  and indeed it is!  It absolutely charms with its many narrow streets, ancient flowering balconies, beautiful squares and weathered buildings.  The size and location  of Ortygia reminds us of Balboa Island in Newport Beach, California.  We arrived around 4:00 pm and we were able to cover the entire island on foot in about 1 hour.  The waterfront of Ortygia Island has wonderful views and is full of enchanting churches and ancient buildings.

When we booked out hotel, we had no idea that the hotel was actually a B&B.  We booked it because it had almost a “10” rating (10 is tops) on Trip Advisor. This B&B was not your typical B&B because it was not in someone’s home.  It was actually in a small renovated building and lived up to it’s high rating.  We had a very upscale, modern suite with a sitting room and large bedroom.

On a country road
On a country road
Sheep dog - one of five
Sheep dog – one of five
Incredible restored mosaics
Incredible restored mosaics
Noah's Ark type of story
Noah’s Ark type of story
This was the "living room" of this politician's apartment
This was the “living room” of this politician’s apartment
Beautiful statue
Beautiful statue
Note all of the Olympic sports illustrated
Note all of the Olympic sports illustrated
This was in the living room
Part of the Hunt Room floor
Just how long would it have taken to design and install this?
Just how long would it have taken to design and install this?

 

Primary fountain in Ortigia (Syracusa island)
Primary fountain in Ortygia (Syracusa island)
Piazza Duomo in Ortigia
Piazza Duomo in Ortygia
Ortigia's harbor
Ortygia’s harbor

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