All posts by dtt3@hotmail.com

Ancient Roma!

On Friday, we were off on two walking tours of Rome.   In spite of it being a slower time of year, the number of tourists is, at times, overwhelming.  Where we haven’t seen many Americans in our month long travels so far, Rome is full of them – by the bus loads!  We could hardly walk the streets today (Saturday) because it was so busy.  Traffic appears always heavy and the number of Mercedes’ Smart Cars is amazing.
Our first stop on Friday was the Coliseum and the Roman Forum (the original “downtown” of Rome).  Also, known as the “Flavium Amphitheater” (named after the family that built it), it is the most amazing structure when you actually see it in person.  Pictures do not do the Coliseum justice.  It was a surprise to find that inside the Coliseum, it is actually an oval structure rather than a round configuration.  There were 80 arched entrances allowing easy access to 55,000 spectators who were seated according to rank.  The Roman gladiators (who were usually prisoners of war, slaves, or condemned criminals) put on bloody shows multiple times a day.  Should the ground become too soaked with blood, it was covered with another layer of sand and the show went on!  There actually were a few female gladiators, but our guide told us that little has been written about these female fighters.
The Arch of Constantine was another spectacular sight, where pictures don’t do it justice.   It was located right next to the Coliseum and was the entrance road to the Roman Forum, one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, and ancient Rome’s showpiece center.  Although it is an impressive site; it is also a rather confusing sprawl of ruins.  It was the marketplace of Rome were commerce, business, prostitution and administration of justice took place.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, the forum was buried by the silt from the annual flooding over the 600 years that Rome was abandoned.  It actually was a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages!
After lunch, we met our guide and visited the imposing Vatican City.  We were told that the Papal Palace is 9 miles long-a fact that did not surprise us!  This “tiny” country is truly “enormous” due to its abundance of historical religious treasures. There are 4.4 miles of exhibit halls with about 54 galleries and 40 rooms in total.  The majority of the museum are rooms of ancient Roman sculpture and Renaissance paintings.  One of the most impressive areas was actually the Gallery of Maps “Hall”.  It is a 394 foot long tunnel and it includes a set of all the maps that represent Italy.  The maps were amazing-especially considering the low-tech way they were made.  Another interesting area was the Gallery of Tapestries were all the floor-to-ceiling tapestries were designed in Raphael’s Belgium workshop and tell picture stories from Raphael’s drawings.  The tapestries were quite spectacular and one of the tapestries actually had an optical illusion woven into it.  The “animal room” containing life-size stone animals was another highlight.  We were quite surprised that the Museum was so incredibly crowded in early April. Often, it was impossible to get good pictures.
The last part of the tour was a visit to the famous Sistine Chapel which attracts about 4 million visitors a year.  Prior to entering the Chapel, our guide explained the significance of the Michelangelo’s first commissioned frescoes on the ceiling (which took 5 years to complete and is the most impressive part of the room) and Botticelli’s and Perugino’s paintings on the walls.  Upon entering the Chapel, one is mandated to maintain complete silence; however, the sheer quantities of people who were here today made the experience not quite serene and magical.
After the tour, we headed to St. Peter’s Basilica.  It is one of the largest churches in the world and so spectacular it left us almost speechless.  It is regarded as one of the holiest Catholic sites and can hold up to 60,000 people.  Today was a remarkable and memorable day for us in beautiful Roma.
Along the River Tevere
Along the River Tevere

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Colliseum
Colliseum
It's oval
It’s oval
"Locker rooms" below
“Locker rooms” below
Entrance to the Forum
Entrance to the Forum
Michaelangelo lived here (along with other wealthy on this hill)
Michaelangelo lived here (along with other wealthy on this hill)
Church within the forum
Church within the forum
Rome Forum
Roman Forum

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Hall of Animals
Hall of Animals
Only statue with "eyes"
Only statue with “eyes”
Hall of Maps
Hall of Maps
Hall of Tapestry
Hall of Tapestry
Raphael added Michelangelo (writing on the lower left)
Raphael added Michelangelo (writing on the lower left)
St. Peter's Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter's Square
St. Peter’s Square
One of 100 Swiss guards
One of 100 Swiss guards
We were here!
We were here!

 

Wandering Oporto

There are really very few similarities between Porto and Lisbon-they are both near the coast and have some fairly daunting hills, but we think that is where it ends.  The two cities have a different feel and different charms.  Porto almost has a “faded grandeur” about it similar to Buenos Aires. (In our opinion, Lisbon, even though it is larger, trumps Porto for charm.)  We were told that there is a strong sense of rivalry between Porto and Lisbon.  Porto is a riverside town that has a thousand and one nooks and crannies with loads of local culture and history. It was a trading and commercial city dominated by the church and all that can be seen and felt in one of the oldest cities in Europe. It’s like taking a trip back to Olde London town. Today, was the first sunny day in Porto since we arrived; so, we decided not to take any day trips by train and just meander the streets and explore this delightful city.  We strolled along the steep, cobbled, convoluted streets and alleyways of the historic center and the downtown area.  The network of tiny streets, where no cars could possibly travel,  had lots of laundry swaying in the wind from the windows. There were numerous small shrines and churches dotted throughout the city. We were awestruck by the number of churches that had absolutely magnificent blue and white tiled scenes on the facades. 
The Ribeira District is the heartbeat of the city.  It lines the banks of the River Douro with pastel-hued, tile-faced houses with ornate iron balconies that has made Porto a World Heritage town.  Ribeira also lies next to the most beautiful bridge of Porto, the Ponte Dom Luis (a 240 foot high double-decker bridge).  Ribeira, is full of bars and touristy restaurants and overlooks the area across the river called Vila Nova de of Gaia.  Gaia is where the original port families stored and aged their port wine. Gaia is what made Porto so famous.  Unfortunately, both of us are not fans of port wine so we didn’t partake in any “flight” samplings.
We stopped by the Bolhao Food Market which was disappointing (perhaps because it was on a Tuesday?) and then headed to the Torre dos Clerigos which is a 240-step landmark tower with panoramic views of Porto. The Sao Bento train station might be one of the most beautiful train stations in the world!  The station, which used to be a former monastery, marks the transition from the old town to the downtown area.  The station is famous for its massive and stunning Portuguese tile (a.k.a. traditional azulejos) panels that depict scenes of the history of Portugal. We also visited two Porto institutions that exemplify a bygone era:  The Lello Bookshop which is considered  to be one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world (they even charge admission!) and the iconic Cafe Majestic, opened in 1921, where waiters serve you tea and pastries in white jackets. Photography in the bookstore is not even allowed.  The bookshop is well-know for its red stairway that looks like a giant tongue!
Tonight, we dined at an upscale restaurant that served “contemporary” Portuguese food, specializing in tapas.  We feasted on 4 different Portuguese tapas ranging from sausages, octopus, fish cakes and a ham and mushroom mixture.  All were quite delicious.
Tomorrow we fly back to Madrid for the night and then we fly on to Rome on Thursday.

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Always lots of high end children's clothes
Always lots of high end children’s clothes
Graffitti?
Graffitti?
Majestic Cafe
Majestic Cafe
Good example of Porto buildings
Good example of Porto buildings
Hills of Porto
Hills of Porto
One of many blue-tiled churches
One of many blue-tiled churches
Quite a bookstore!
Quite a bookstore!
The metropolitan area (3.7m people) stretches a long way.
The metropolitan area (3.7m people) stretches a long way.
One of the great trams.
One of the great trams.
Riverfront & many bridges of Porto
Riverfront & many bridges of Porto
The window displays rotate up & down - interesting
The window displays rotate up & down – interesting
One of Porto's shopping streets
One of Porto’s shopping streets
A popular plaza
A popular plaza
????
????
Douro River & all of its bridges
Douro River & all of its bridges

A Perfect Day for Locks ‘n Rain

On Monday, we awakened to pouring rain as we grabbed a quick breakfast and headed to the train station for our 2 1/2 hour train ride up the Douro Valley.  The Douro Valley is one of the world’s oldest and noted wine regions.  It is a UNESCO world heritage natural beauty site since 2001 and is famous for cultivating more than 250 grape varietals.  We were part of a group of 10 foreigners/tourists that were eagerly awaiting to participate in a leisurely, and scenic 5/6 hour riverboat cruise experience back down this scenic river. The Douro Valley is home to the famous Port wine.  We were surprised to learn that the Douro River is 557 miles long and runs through both Spain and Portugal.
These river cruises are very popular as there are numerous day & overnight cruise boats on the river.  It seems to us that Portugal’s Douro River cruises tend to be off the beaten “river cruising” track in comparison to the popular Rhine, Danube and Rhone. Obviously, this is a slower time of year as our boat, with a capacity of 216, had only 15 tourists aboard.  While many  cruise travelers have yet to stumble across the Douro River, we have been told that U.K. operators have been plying the river for years.  (It was the Brits who started the port wine industry 300 years ago with their Portuguese allies.)
The scenic hills are filled with steps for growing these famous port grapes. Some vineyards go all of the way down to the bank of the river. In addition to the farmhouses, wineries and small towns, there were various small hotels and condominiums.
Other than the gorgeous scenery (even in the pouring rain), the most exciting adventure for us was going through two locks, the largest of which lowers the boat over 115 feet. It may be the 2nd deepest lock in Europe. Below that dam the river was slower flowing than above it – primarily because the river was much wider.
It was a long boat ride and we arrived back to Porto around 5:30 p.m.  When the announcer is acknowledging the architect of a concrete highway bridge or pointing out the water treatment plant, you know that you have probably seen the best already!
Scene from the train
Douro River from the train
Clusters of homes & step vineyards
Clusters of homes & step vineyards
Couldn't figure out the "remodeling status" of this home
Couldn’t figure out the “remodeling status” of this home
Entering the lock - 115+ foot drop to the river below
Entering the lock – 115+ foot drop to the river below
Slowly lowering
Slowly lowering
I hope that this gate holds!!
I hope that this gate holds!!
We've dropped a lot!
We’ve dropped a lot!
Emerging
Emerging

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The rain finally stopped!
The rain finally stopped!

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Our Pousada
Our Pousada
Around Porto there are a lot of small tourist boats
Around Porto there are a lot of small tourist boats
Vila Nova de Gaia, town across the river from Porto
Vila Nova de Gaia, town across the river from Porto
Port Wineries across from Porto
Port Wineries across from Porto

Porto in the rain

The train from Lisbon to Porto was a pleasant 2 1/2 hour ride.  However, upon arriving we were faced with 2 1/2 days of rain.  Our hotel, a beautiful old 18th century baroque palace with a separate building added for rooms, is very ornate but elegant.  It sits overlooking the river and the Feixer harbor.  Our room has a lovely view of the Douro River.  The hotel has 20+ foot ceilings with very elaborate designs.  Two foot thick granite walls are throughout the “palace”.
We walked the 2.5 miles to the center of Porto in spite of the drizzle.  The path follows the river with it’s tourist boats plodding up and down the Douro River.  Most of Porto is on a hill directly above the river so the walk up the hill is either on endless steps or on curvy roads that meander up the hill.  We enjoyed the walk but the rain forced us into a taxi for the ride back.
On Sunday, we tried to wait the rain out as it poured in the morning.  We loaded our backpack with all of our rain gear, including rain pants, and headed off.  Our walk to town was not too wet with only light showers.  In anticipation of our rail trip on Monday, we found the Sao Bento rail station which has extensive blue Portuguese tiles depicting important historical events in the main lobby.  They were very impressive.  Thunder, lightening and heavy rain kept us in the train lobby longer than we wanted; and, the periods of rain varied throughout the day.  Porto is the home of Port wine and we headed to the Taylor Winery.  Lesley’s father used to give her Taylor port & ginger ale at age 8 as he bounced her on his legs.  She must have been something to require that elixir at that age!!  The Taylor Winery is one of a dozen+ port tasting rooms along the river bank.  We missed the tour in English but we may try to pick it up on Tuesday.
Porto is a lovely town of 250k people – the 2nd largest city in Portugal.  The town with many narrow winding streets is filled with brightly colored buildings, restaurants & small shops.  The riverfront is hopping with restaurants, tour boats, winery cruises and larger river cruise ships.  Most of the tourists in our hotel are English speaking, many from the UK.  There were many more English speaking tourists than we saw in Lisbon; most likely due to the close proximity of England to Porto.  We also have found that there are many more English speaking locals than in Lisbon.  It is probably because of the UK visitors and the importance of tourism.
The "Palace" from our room
The “Palace” from our room
A climb up the hill in Porto
A climb up the hill in Porto
Porto
Porto
Tiles are common
Tiles are common
Tiles within Sao Bento Rail Station
Tiles within Sao Bento Rail Station
Sao Bento Rail Station
Sao Bento Rail Station
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Riverfront

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All of the vineyards have river boats
All of the vineyards have river boats

Fatima, Obidos and Nazare all in one day!

Today, we visited the ancient village of Obidos with its white-washed walls and towering castle (which is now a hotel).  This village is commonly known as the “wedding present town”, as it was a gift from King Dinis to Queen Isabel on their wedding day in 1282.  This charming, walled fortress village is known for it’s ginja, a Portuguese cherry liqueur.  There were numerous handicraft/touristy shops and wine taverns in Obidos.

We drove to the Alcobaca  Monastery of Santa Maria, one of the few European monuments that has managed to preserve intact an entire group of medieval buildings with its church.  This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the biggest gothic-style church in Portugal.  The interior of the church was bright, light and quite spectacular in a simple way.  There was very little art work and other decorative items – quite unusual for most churches.  The church was built by a king for his and his Queen’s final resting place.

For lunch, we headed to the sea cliff fishing town of Nazare, a very picturesque coastal town in the Estremadura region.  Nazare is home to the some of the largest waves in the world due to an underwater channel right off the shore break.   We spotted a quaint little restaurant on the main street across from the ocean which appeared to have a few native Portuguese dining inside-a good sign!  We both had the fish stew and were not disappointed.  It was by far the best meal we have had so far in Portugal.  It was absolutely, as the Europeans’ say “brilliant”.

Our last stop was Fatima about 1 1/2 hours outside of Lisbon.  Fatima, whose name is derived fom a Moorish princess, is one of the most important Catholic shrines in the world.  Millions of pilgrims and tourists come from around the globe to honor the apparition of the Virgin Mary.  It was once a sleepy village that became an important pilgrimage site in 1917 when three shepherd children reported apparitions of the Virgin Mary.  A subsequent miracle was confirmed by thousands in attendance.

Portugal is truly Europe’s hidden treasure and seems to be overlooked as a European destination.  Tomorrow we are headed by train to Porto and the famous Douro Valley noted for its fabulous table and port wines.

 

Another village street
Another village street

 

A very bright cathedral
A very bright cathedral
A king's final resting place
A king’s final resting place

 

 

 

 

Beach city
Nazare – Beach city
These houses are hanging on!
These Nazare  cliff  homes  are still livable!
Church at Fatima
Church at Fatima (under repair before the Pope’s visit in 2017).
New Fatima Catholic Church - holds 8000 worshippers
New Fatima Catholic Church – holds 8000 worshippers

Disneyland and Surf City!

It is not uncommon for every town to have a special pastry.  After a visit to the local bakery for the town’s “aqueijada”, a scrumptious petite flaky pastry flavored with cinnamon, our first stop was the storybook Palacio de Pena from the 19th century.  It is a sight to beholden. The drive up to the castle was on a long, very narrow and winding road and quite eventful with its bends and turns which amps up one to a breathtaking image of this mythical residence.  It is a so-called “romanticist” palace that looks like it could have been created by Walt Disney and plopped right in the middle of Disneyland.  For history buffs, King Ferdinand built it in the 19th century as a summer retreat.  The palace features everything a “Disneyland/fairytale” palace needs:  drawbridges, turrets, ramparts, domes, numerous intriguing gargoyles, all washed in an array of pastel colors.  The exterior has a number of styles:  Neo-Gothic, Islamic and Neo-Renaissance.  The interior is decorated in gaudy Victorian and Edwardian styles.  The interesting fact about the palace is that King Fernando II purchased the ruins of a monastery here and adapted it and added on to for use as a residence according to his “romantic” taste.
We headed to the historical center of Sintra for lunch.  Since it was not quite noon, many of the restaurants were not open.  One of the restaurant options, was a French restaurant right in the middle of the square-we knew it was going to be a tourist trap;however, we reluctantly entered.  Big mistake!  In many foreign countries, you pay for any extras such as bread.  That is fine with us.  We were asked if we wanted bread and we said yes.  The waiter then proceeded to bring out bread, olives, cheese and prosciutto.  Needless to say, we “dug in” for a whopping $30 “price of bread” plus our mediocre lunch!  A lesson learned. . . turn down anything other than bread and don’t go to an obvious tourist- trap restaurant.
Apres lunch, we drove by a few more spectacular castles in Sintra and headed to the lighthouse and rocky bluffs of Cabo de Roca.  It is Europe’s westernmost point.  We also briefly visited the famous surfing beach, Guincho Beach and stopped at Boca de Inferno (a.k.a Hell’s Mouth).  It a chasm located in the seaside cliffs. Especially during inclement weather, the waves strike the cave walls in a violent explosive manner.  We continued our drive down the coast to the famous former fishing town of Caiscais which is now a trendy vacation getaway and Estoril which is known for it’s casino.
This evening we listened to some interesting fado music sung by a very masculine but sonsy woman while dining on Portuguese fare of potatoes and fish.
Buying local pastries at 250 year old backery
Buying local pastries at 250 year old backery
Disney palace
Disney palace
Sea monsters!
Sea monsters!

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Sintra, a lovely town
Sintra, a lovely town
Disney palace as seen from another palace
Disney palace as seen from another palace

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Most western point in Continental Europe
Most western point in Continental Europe

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Another vacation home
Another vacation home
This one even has a water feature!
This one even has a water feature!
Love those beach artists
Love those beach artists
Our Fado singer
Our Fado singer

Lisboa . . . . a Gem of a City

Alluring Lisbon has cobblestone, hilly streets, vibrant buildings and colorful neighborhoods. This morning, we took a free walking tour of the Chiado/Baixa,areas of “Lisboa”.  Lisbon’s city center is home to these two neighborhoods that meld together into one.  We were surprised at all the high-end shops and elegant cafes that encompass the Chiado area.  We were told that it is one of the most fashionable areas of Lisbon.  .  .  .  and indeed it is!  The tour started at Camoes Square.  The square was full of people, sitting outside cafes in the sun, snapping photos and gathering around street performers.   One of the area’s biggest attractions is the Convento do Carmo.  It is a beautiful medieval church in a state of ruin due to the major 1755 earthquake.  The Santa Justa Elevator, another of Lisbon’s icons, offers Neo-Gothic architecture with long lines in order to take the elevator to the top.  Our guide led us up to almost the top with no lines and no cost!
From Praca do Comercio, Lisbon’s main square, we took a scenic tram ride to the very popular district of Belem.  It  is about 5 miles outside downtown Lisbon along the coast.  We had lunch at a charming little cafe along the street.  Belem is noted for it’s famous Portuguese custard tart invented by the Jeronimos monks 200 years ago.  By inventing and selling the pastry, it enabled the monks to avoid closing down the monastery.  The Jeronimos Monastery is a very imposing structure and left us breathless both inside and out.  It is a famous example of the Portuguese late gothic architecture along with the equally famous Tower of Belem which is almost across the street adjacent to the Tagus River.  Belem reflects all the grandeur that characterized the “Age of Discovery” as this was the start of nearly all of Portugal’s voyages of exploration.  This area is packed with interesting historical sites.
We had dinner tonight at “La Petite Cafe” very close to our hotel.  The seafood was delicious as well as was the wine.    Portuguese food is wonderful and the Portuguese wine is even better.  Lisbon is the place where you come expecting nothing in particular and leave wishing that you could take it with you.  It definitely has a “chill-out” vibe and we absolutely love everything about it!
One of Portugal's writers - he had 142 pseudonyms
One of Portugal’s writers – he had 142 pseudonyms
Cathedral partially destroyed by 1755 earthquake
Cathedral partially destroyed by 1755 earthquake
Guarding the government buildings
Guarding the government buildings
Commemorating the Age of Discovery
Commemorating the Age of Discovery

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Art
Art
This fort was originally in the center of the river
This fort was originally in the center of the river
Lots of food trucks modelled after VW vans
Lots of food trucks modelled after VW vans

AM or PM??

David was confirming our flight to Lisbon on the way to the airport in Madrid at 8:30 this morning. He suddenly realized (even though he had looked at the flight information at least 5 times over the last few days) that we were booked on the 11:00 PM flight not the 11:30 AM flight. We ended up having to purchase two new “round-trip” tickets for the last two seats on the 11:30 AM flight.  As a result, this short flight from Madrid to Lisbon will be one of the most expensive individual flights that we will take in 7 1/2 months of travel!  DANG!!
We arrived in Lisbon in the afternoon, checked into our hotel, grabbed some lunch and had a few hours to explore the city.  Our boutique hotel, the Memmo Alfama, is a little diamond in the heart of Alfama.  The hotel was formally a bakery and was turned into a hotel 3 years ago.  The “miradouros” (views in Portuguese) from the rooftop bar of the Tejo River are spectacular.  Alfama is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Europe and surely one of the most picturesque of Lisbon.  We are staying near the medieval Castle of Sao Jorge, where there are some of the best views of the city from this Moorish castle.  The main facade of the castle looks similar to a fortress.
The Alfama district was the one district that was not destroyed in the 1755, 9.0 earthquake; so there are numerous buildings older than the rest of the city.  It is a village within a city; and, retains much of the Moorish fishing village charm.  It was quite easy for us to get lost this afternoon in its timeless labyrinth of intertwining alleyways. The maze of cobbled streets and alleys here veer between the quaint and rustic with yellow trams snaking up the steep streets.  Everywhere you turn there are small patios, picturesque squares, and whitewashed houses with tile panels adorned with wrought-iron balconies. The chipped tiles, peeling paint and wash hanging on lines gives the neighborhood a level of authenticity.  It’s appears that this is a neighborhood people live in rather than just come to visit.  Many of the families have been living in this old part of the city for generations.  It is definitely part of Alfama’s charm. Despite Alfama being one of Lisbon’s star attractions, the area did not feel touristy to us.  Aimlessly wandering the streets of Alfama today was a great introduction to beautiful Lisboa.
It has been interesting – the Portuguese are very proud of their heritage and often bring up the Age of Discovery – when the Portuguese  sailed the world and discovered new lands.  That 150 year period ended 450 years ago!
View from our hotel
View from our hotel
Lisbon
Lisbon
Gardens of Fort above Lisbon
Gardens of Fort above Lisbon
Lisbon's version of a Tuk-Tuk
Lisbon’s version of a Tuk-Tuk
These old trolleys go everywhere
These old trolleys go everywhere
Largest Square in Lisbon
Largest Square in Lisbon
Interesting façade on this museum
Interesting façade on this museum

Requiescence

After losing three days of travelling to Marrakesh from Southern Argentina and an exhausting 14- hour trip over the Atlas Mountains yesterday, we decided it was time for a rest before we hit the ground running in Portugal.  We are flying to Madrid tomorrow, then Lisbon. Over the lasts few days, Lesley actually wore a light ski jacket and vest in Morocco however, today it was sunny and in the 70’s.  It was a perfect day to have Easter brunch on the patio at the hotel.  We then lounged around the beautiful hotel pools, digging into our books.  We also spent a couple of hours wandering aimlessly in the souks of the Medina.  Almost all the specific shops offer the same items; and it actually became boring perusing the shops one more time. We were quite proud of ourselves for not getting lost within the labyrinth of shops.  David figured out that if we always walked toward the sun, we would not get lost and he was correct in his assumption.

The concierge arranged to have a well-known Moroccan restaurant pick us up for dinner.  As we sat down, the rolled up prix-fixed menu starred us in the face.  Because we are eating out every meal, we try not to “over-indulge” on any single meal.  We asked for a regular menu which the waiter begrugingly handed to us.  He was in total “amazement” and “disbelief” that would could possibly go without an appetizer or dessert.  Interestingly, we watched everyone come into the restaurant, sit down and assume that the lengthy, prix-fixed menu was the only thing available.  Unfortunately, this pricey dinner was mediocre at best; however, the belly dancer with lit candles on her head was the highlight of the evening.
Medina's big square
Medina’s big square
Transportation varies
Transportation varies
Sofitel's "art"
Sofitel’s “art”
What a great place to relax!
What a great place to relax!
Resting at the pool
Resting at the pool

Atlas & Hollywood

On Friday we went on a 14 hour tour of the Atlas Mountains.  The mountains are strikingly beautiful with Mount Toubkao being the highest peak in the Atlas mountain and North Africa (2nd highest in all of Africa).  There was a “melting pot” of nationalities on this tour:  a young couple from Pakistan living in London, another young couple from Denmark and two old retirees from Park City!  We started out at 7:30 a.m. and headed toward the Atlas Mountains and the Tizi n’Tichka Pass.  You can see this snow capped mountain range from Marrakesh.  The range separates the weather off the Mediterranean that impacts northern Morocco from the dry, hot desert south of the Atlas Mountains.  The summit of the Atlas Mountains is 13,100 feet. The “Tichka Pass” is a dramatic route through the Atlas Mountains that reaches an altitude of around 8,000 feet.
As you drive south towards the mountains, the area historically has been inhabited by the Berbers, a long-standing tribe that not only farmed but raised sheep.  After the pass, the drier countryside has been historically inhabited by nomads who brought their goats to feed on the mountain dry grasses from May to October and moved back into the desert for the winter.  There are numerous mud & stone houses on this side of the mountains that are available for use by these nomadic tribes.
Initially, it appeared that our driver was taking the usual precautions with a van full of 6 tourists; however, once we started the very lengthy series of hairpin turns climbing up the Tizi, our driver started passing on these winding curves which made for a hair-raising drive since we were sitting in the front seats.  A couple of times, David let out a “gasp”. The drive is also the shortest way over the mountains, so 18-wheelers are numerous.  Passing them when there isn’t a particularly long straight road can be particularly exciting.
At one point as we started our descent, we went off a narrow (really one-lane) badly damaged asphalt road that promised us some “great views”.  The hairpin turns didn’t go away as we followed a river down the mountains.  Villages consisted of mud huts, stuccoed mud huts, and cinder block homes.  Some seemed to be quite nice with smooth stucco, bright paint and designs around the windows.  Every village (enclave) had a mosque even if a neighboring enclave was a 1/4 mile away.
We had lunch in a village where the well preserved Alt Benhaddoue “Kasbah” prerched high on a hill was the home of about a dozen movies/TV series ranging from The Gladiator to some of the Game of Thrones episodes.  After lunch, we walked across sandbags & rocks in a small river and entered the Kasbah from the back entrance.  A very entrepreneurial woman had printed a sign and printed receipts for your $1 entry fee. Of course, when we came out the front, we realized that the entry was free!
We then traveled to Ourzazate, Morocco’s “Hollywood”.  There are two movie studios & related back lots there along with a Cinema Museum.  Needless to say, they did not compete with the LA studios.  This new town of several hundred thousand people is really focused on the studios.  Not far from the studios is a large castle that is regularly used for some Game of Thrones episodes as well as other similar period movies.  It was unlocked so we wandered through the fiberglass & plaster buildings.  We had a tedious 4-hour drive across the Tizzy pass with what seemed like hundreds of nerve-racking curves in the pitch dark, returning to Marrakesh at 9:00 p.m.  There were a couple of times, we weren’t sure we would make it back in one piece.  It was a long day.
Atlas Mtns & the lush areas on their northern side
Atlas Mtns & the lush areas on their northern side
Berber villages on the north side
Berber villages on the north side
The winding road down on the south side of the Atlas'
The winding road down on the south side of the Atlas’
We made the pass!
We made the pass!
Typical village on the South (arid) side of the Atlas'
Typical village on the South (arid) side of the Atlas’
Another village
Another village
Lesley crossing to the back Kasbah entrance
Lesley crossing to the rear Kasbah entrance
Atlas Mountains
Atlas Mountains cover the horizon
Kasbah where many films were staged
Kasbah where many films were staged
Every country needs its own "Hollywood"
Every country needs its own “Hollywood”
Fiberglass & plaster never looked so good
Fiberglass & plaster never looked so good
Sheep & goats are the staple of these nomadic tribes
Sheep & goats are the staple of these nomadic tribes